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Luang Prabang, Laos
Overview
The word
that best describes Luang Prabang is: UNSPOILED. To say that Luang Prabang is charming would be an absolute understatement.
On this page:
Weather
Buddhist Monks and Temples
Night Market
Lao Food
Get Out of Town
Lao Money is (Practically) Worthless
Internet Access
Passport Photos
Lost Luggage
Luang Prabang is THE place to visit in SE Asia. This small town is SE Asia as you envision it back in
the old romantic colonial days. The whole town is a UNESCO World
Heritage site, and it shows -- there are numerous Buddhist temples
on every block, monks in orange robes all over the place, and just a
pleasant atmosphere that makes it fun to simply sit at an outdoor cafe
and relax or walk along the Mekong and watch the fishermen haul in their
catch.
Download my FREE Luang Prabang Guide
and Map here -- perfectly sized for your pocket notebook. You
can add in your own tips / activities and places to go. Print it
out, and you're on your way.


WEATHER
The weather here is a lot more mild than in
other areas of Southeast Asia. Even in the dog days of the dry
season, it's not too humid out during the day, and the evening
temperatures are fantastic for walking around and enjoying the town's
various night markets and food stalls.
BUDDHIST MONKS AND TEMPLES
Numerous Buddhist temples -- all of which are still in use and occupied
by local monks -- dot the town. The old city peninsula has the
highest concentration of monasteries and temples, but there are plenty
more around town and across the river. You just need to hire a
boat to take you across the river see the temples on the other side of
the Mekong.
At dawn, Buddhist monks file through town on the way to their respective
temples. Locals kneel down and present offerings of food (usually
sticky rice) to the monks as they walk down the sidewalk.
Tourists may participate in
giving alms to Buddhist monks, but must remain respectful of the monks and
the ceremony.

NIGHT MARKET
At night, the town closes off the main strip and locals set up a night
market where they sell their local wares. Here you can haggle for
$1 T-shirts, colorfully embroidered bags, Lao coffee beans, artwork and
various woodworked handicrafts. This is a great place to pick up a
present or a nice reminder of your trip to Luang Prabang.
The locals generally start putting out their wares at around 5-6pm and
the market lasts until a little after 9pm. The vendors are quite
genial, and don't try to harass you into buying something as they do in
other countries (especially other SE Asian countries). In fact,
they are remarkably courteous and respectful. You notice this
courtesy in every interaction with the locals, but it's especially
apparent in the night market which is a sharp contrast to the hectic and
chaotic markets most often found in SE Asia.
Regarding the market, I definitely recommend picking up some of the
cheap BeerLao t-shirts that are available. These were probably the
best things I bought in Laos, and are a definite conversation starter.
It seems wherever I go...the local bakery, a bar, the elevator, people
are commenting on or asking about the shirt, with its bold logo on the
front and Lao script on the back.

LAO FOOD
There are numerous restaurants both on and off
the main strip to choose from, and everything is extremely cheap.
Plan on getting a good meal in a decent restaurant for under $5.
GET OUT OF TOWN
hire boats, hire guides, outdoor
activities to enjoy the local area to include
diving and swimming in a
Lao waterfall and
visiting caves which served as
Buddhist Temples.

MONEY
While you can use the Lao Kip, you may be better off using US
Dollars and Thai Baht, or at least keeping some bills of either (or
both) in your wallet. For more information on currencies, ATMs,
and the exchange rate, see my
Lao money page.
INTERNET ACCESS
Many people who go to Laos try to get lost and forget about the
outside world. Luang Prabang is definitely a place that lends
itself to that attitude. For the less adventurous among us,
though, local internet cafes are a great way to stay in touch.
There are numerous internet cafes along the main strip in Luang Prabang,
and a few hotels, such as the "New Luang Prabang", have internet cafes
in their lobbies. Prices for internet access are quite low ($0.10
for 10 minutes of access), but the speeds will not be that fast and will
vary from cafe to cafe.
As an aside, a friend of mine needed print / scan capabilities while on
our trip (he needed to print, sign, and send back some business
documents) and he was able to do all this, albeit very slowly, at the
New Luang Prabang Hotel. Even though we weren't staying there, the
staff was incredibly helpful, and let him use the scanner which was in
the hotel manager's office. This incredible service just played
itself out time and again in Laos, from the moment I got off the plane
to the moment I flew out of the country.

PASSPORT PHOTOS One of the requirements to enter Laos (you get your visa at the airport
when you arrive) is that you have two passport sized photos with you.
Some of my friends had visited the country a couple years ago, and stressed to
me the necessity of bringing pictures along because the airport
definitely does not have a photo booth.
Well, as luck (or my absentmindedness) would
have it, I packed these pictures away in my check in luggage when we
left Thailand, and I didn't realize it until it was time to board our
plane. So I spent the hour and a half flight over fretting about
the passport photos, and I sat brainstorming how to get them out of
my luggage. So I stepped up to the visa counter at the airport and faced
the stodgy uniformed communist guard and told him that my photos were in
my luggage. I was about to ask him if he could let my friend through to go
open up my bag to get them when he reprimanded me with a stiff fine
of....one American dollar. That was less than the cost of the actual
photos!
LOST LUGGAGE
Just when we thought the drama was over, we went
to claim our luggage and realized that somebody had taken my friend's
bag and that guy had left his bag on the airport conveyor belt. Mind you the guy's bag
looks nothing like my friend's bag. So we had to have the kind
folks at Bangkok Air
go
back to pull the customs form, find out what hotel the guy was staying
at, and call up the hotel to get him back to the airport.
I wouldn't even be mentioning this except the
guy takes an hour to get back to the airport (5-10 minute drive from
town) and when he shows up, just blames the mistake on his Thai wife,
doesn't apologize, and just dismisses the whole thing with a "hey, stuff
happens sometimes."
But not only did the guy (or his wife) grab the bag
that looked nothing like their own (wrong color, one was a duffel, one
was a rolley suitcase, etc) the guy went so far as to OPEN the bag and
start riffling through my friend's clothes before he realized he had the
wrong piece of luggage. THEN he didn't even zip up the bag totally
when going back to the airport so that one of my friend's shirts was
hanging out, was
dragged all over the ground, and had mud all over it. So if you want to
sign up
mjlubell@yahoo.com for viagra or Nigerian lottery spam, please do
so.
Lost luggage aside, Luang Prabang is a fantastic destination and I
definitely recommend it to everyone who wants a true taste of Southeast
Asia.
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